We used lots of blocking to fix the floor, but would invariably overlook one or get callbacks for squeaky nails. #24 FT LVL BEAM PRICE CRACK#To correct the problems, framers would cut a kerf in the crowned joist and someone would jump on the fl oor to crack the joist and flatten the floor. Floor joists often had large crowns and the 5⁄8-inch commodity OSB decking (glued and nailed) would telegraph those humps or dips. READ MORE: THE PROS AND CONS OF UPPER CABINETS, OPEN STORAGE AND MOREįloors were a constant source of callbacks and warranty problems, and dimensional lumber posed many issues for us. I marked them with orange paint, and the framer would fix them using different methods with varying degrees of success. I would run my level across the walls, looking for the telltale rocking that revealed a bowed stud. Our ½-inch, Level-4 drywall and vinyl floors telegraphed those inconsistencies, so if I missed them on a frame check, I had a ton of work ahead if it became a punch list item. I remember doing frame checks with my 6-foot level and finding bowed studs and low or crowned joists. At the time, we were framing with low-grade dimensional 2x4s for the walls and 2x10s (or 2x12s) for the floor joists. The walls were preframed in a factory and delivered to our jobsites where the local framer assembled the components. My building career started in the ’90s, working for a company that used panelized systems for its houses.
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